We toured Parma with Michelle Valeria, an incredible guide who introduced us to the history of three major Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) food products: prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and traditional aceto balsamico. Additionally, we tasted Violetta di Parma candies, four kinds of pasta, two local wines, and finished with renowned gelato.
Michelle is a Parma native and has a Master’s degree in art history. She is passionate about the history, science, and artisanal processes behind the famous foods of her hometown. She trained as a cheese judge and spends time at the regional farms, getting to know the craftspeople who produce these amazing DOP products using centuries-old techniques. We were awed by her depth of knowledge and as educators, we were impressed with her ability to pace the information in an engaging way.
Michelle taught us about six different kinds of cured meats – from the history of the curing process to the husbandry and genetics of the pigs. Rapt students listening to our cheese teacher. Note that the cheeseboards have been decimated by A+ students learning how to apply a sensory analysis (visual, tactile, scent, taste) to our samples.Michelle followed up on the varied interests of our tour group and included history lessons on art, music, architecture, and perfume, in addition to the food focus. It was like a graduate seminar condensed into a half-day!
Her flow, her confidence, her ability to answer any question-she was just amazing. The range of her knowledge, whether it was art, history, music, architecture, food, is astounding. Like a good teacher, she directed her answers to each of us, checking in on our individual engagement.
Joseph J. Gill, retired Headmaster
Patiently answering all of our questions!Final course!
Friar Lawrence to Romeo (Romeo & Juliet. 3.3.16-17)
Our Verona tour guide told us that Romeo rode his horse to Mantua but the city gates were closed due to plague. William Shakespeare wrote that Romeo receives a letter in Mantua from Juliet and is briefly happy before being wrongly told that his wife is dead. This disturbing news prompts Romeo to purchase poison from a Mantovan apothecary and race back to Verona to commit suicide.
While our Veronese guide seemed to believe that Shakespeare’s play Romeo & Juliet was a documentary, we know that Willy was inspired by Ovid, da Porto, and Bandello. Matteo Bandello lived in Mantua in the 16th century, working as a soldier, monk, and short-story writer. The historic piazzas and Renaissance buildings built on top of Medieval buildings makes it interesting to walk around town pretending to be Romeo.
Courtyard behind Basilica di Sant’AndreaRotonda di San LorenzoOld city canal
We toured Museo di Palazzo d’Arco with an Italian-speaking guide. The museum provided an english-language booklet that described each room and the artworks contained therein. We took some pictures in the garden before the tour began, but were transfixed by the indoor furnishings, paintings, and sculptures and forgot to take photos! This overwhelming assemblage, which dates back several centuries from the aristocratic d’Arco family, was donated to the city in 1973 and art history students are kept busy each year tracing the provenance of the undocumented paintings in this huge collection.
Gardens at Palazzo d’ArcoThe new Duke of Mantua and his bride!
Arma virumque cano
thus begins Virgil’s epic poem, The Aeneid
We picnicked in this garden dedicated to Virgil, born near Mantua in 70 BC.
We really enjoyed our three nights in Mantova (Mantua) and could happily return for a longer visit. The municipality limits car/truck traffic (ZTL – Zona a Traffico Limitato) in the old city center which encourages pedestrians and cyclists to access local businesses, including an abundance of cafés and restaurants. The market on Thursdays stretches across several piazzas and side streets and offers just about anything you might be looking for. We purchased fabric (4+ metres for only €5), shorts (€2), sewing needles and thread for a button repair, and ingredients for our picnic lunch.
We are impressed with the clean streets, bicycle commuters, and friendliness of locals. Our Airbnb apartment was well-appointed; it included a washing machine with detergent, daily maid service, and coupons for breakfast at a local café.
We day-tripped from Verona by train to visit Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lake. The weather was insanely gorgeous and the beaches were still full with sun-worshiping vacationers.
Peschiera del Garda is surrounded by defensive canals and wallsGatto del lagoSarah made friends wading with the ducks!Our first Italian gelato since 2013! Yum!Sculpture at random cafe!Captain JoeVenetian channel markersThe Ugly DucklingFirst Little Free Library we have seen in Europe!Lots of campgrounds were still full!
Where in the world are the Gills? 