retirement travel

Race and Tourism

It’s because being American is more than a pride we inherit,
it’s the past we step into
and how we repair it.

– excerpt from Amanda Gorman’s poem, “The Hill We Climb”

As we approached Natchez, Mississippi, we talked about our discomfort in touring antebellum homes with a history of glossing over the realities of the enslaved people who were forced to build and maintain through harsh work the lush lifestyles of the white slave owners. With some trepidation, we embarked on a horse-driven carriage ride tour of downtown historical Natchez.

Before we boarded the carriage, our tour driver let us know that he would not simply be pointing out pretty gardens and colorful homes. We were going to hear a historically accurate narrative about the people of this region, beginning with “our amazing Indigenous people who have lived here for thousands of years.” Randy went on to tell us that if we were sensitive or disinterested in a frank discussion about the history of colonialism and slavery and the contemporary challenges of systemic racism that continue in this country, this tour would not be for us.

This is a relatively new approach to responsible tourism in this country. We were grateful that a knowledgeable local guide was willing to delve deeper into the narrative of enslaved people and help us reckon with the fuller story of North American colonialism and the Atlantic slave trade. Many of us learned in school that slavery was mostly in the South and mostly in the agriculture industry (e.g. “Gone With The Wind” and other stereotypes of plantation living) but on this trip to Natchez we were reminded that slavery underpins the entire capitalist system, through French, British, Spanish, and eventually American rule of this area. Wealthy merchants in town used slave labor to build their mansions, and the privileged caste lived in these highly decorated homes that were meant to keep the classes separated. For the enslaved people, these “beautiful prisons” were designed to let the owners see and control them; there was no privacy for enslaved people.

History is incomplete without a discussion of the roots of colonialism and slavery. As painful as it is, we must acknowledge the complicated, fractured past of the American story. What texts written by Black and Indigenous authors are we reading about history? What sources are we learning from when we travel and explore historical sites? What non-white media are we consuming? How can we be a better ally for the BIPOC community?

A colleague of Sarah’s recommends signing up for 28 Days of Black History: https://28daysofblackhistory.us19.list-

Categories: responsible tourism, retirement travel | Tags: , , , , , , | 1 Comment

King Cake for Breakfast & Daiquiris for Lunch

All NY resolutions of salads and moderate meal portions were paused for our nine days of food heaven in Louisiana. Who doesn’t love Randazzo’s King Cake for breakfast every day during carnival season???

We camped at a great state park across the lake from NOLA with easy access to the causeway for visits with friends on both sides of the water. Thank you to everyone who made time in their schedules to hang out with the Gills!

GEOQUIZ: Where in the world did a bakery substitute Baby Yoda for Baby Jesus in their carnival cakes?

Categories: epic road trip, fulltime RV life, geoquiz, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Davis Bayou

We just finished a week at Davis Bayou State Campground, where we learned that shower #1 has the most hot water and the best water pressure since we left Cape Cod. Sarah actually washed her hair twice this week!

She also had her first Guinness in months (bliss!) and while temperatures were cool, we enjoyed lots of sunshine while walking in the area. This part of Mississippi was hard hit by back-to-back hurricanes a few years ago and recovery in many places is still slow. The campground is filled with snowbirds like us and the park system abuts a neighborhood with a pedestrian gate so many locals come through the park to run, fish, cycle, etc.

On Wednesday, we were glued to PBS watching the inauguration proceedings in D.C., much like the rest of the country. Molly had a bath at Tractor Supply and received her regular monthly cytopoint injection at Bienville Animal Medical Center.

Categories: beach walking, epic road trip, fulltime RV life, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

Florida’s First Lavender Farm

We stayed overnight at Southern Grace Lavender Farm through the Harvest Hosts program. Jason and Kari are building something very special on this farm. Sarah is a long-time user and connoisseur of all things lavender; their small-batch products are some of the best she has ever sampled, including trips to lavender farms in California, British Columbia, and France. Cornelia smells great this week as we enjoy their lavender-plumeria candle. Sarah has been wanting to try a shampoo bar to eliminate another source of plastic in our lives and her long curly locks are responding nicely to the heavenly-scented lavender-tea tree shampoo bar from Southern Grace Lavender Farm! And for two nights, we have slumbered like babies with the lavender-eucalyptus pillow mist on our curtains above our bed. With reasonable prices, environmentally responsible packaging, and absolutely gorgeous products invented and made at the farm by owners Jason and Kari, we recommend our friends check them out for online ordering. Did we mention the pastoral landscape? And the fresh eggs? And the bluebirds?

Categories: epic road trip, fulltime RV life, Harvest Hosts, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Bees, Cheese, and Blueberry Wine

Three nights of agri-tourism through Harvest Hosts gave us new insights into professional pollinators, the benefits of goat milk, and the anti-oxidant power of blueberry wine.

The Bee Barn

We sampled honey and picked up luscious lotions to combat the dry winter air. We learned that the Peace River Bees travel the country to pollinate commercial crops like almonds and citrus in California, apples and cranberries in Maine, and even an assortment of crops in the prairies. Molly made friends with the neighbor’s cows.

Proctor’s Goat Farm and Goat Life

Curious and intelligent goats invited us to walk the twelve acres of pastures and woodland trails with them. They seemed eager to show us their favorite edibles (Spanish moss and palmetto were both popular choices!) and the eldest of the herd adopted Joe and never left his side. In the morning, we were invited to watch the milking and Sarah even got in the parlor and milked one of the gentle girls. We left with a fridge full of fresh fromage de chèvre and goat milk fudge!

Whispering Oaks Winery

This bustling estate introduced us to eight new wines all made from blueberries. Because it was Friday night, we were able to have a steak dinner served outside with a live blues band on the ample patio. A traveling circus was set up in one of the adjoining pastures and on Saturday morning, a 5K race challenged fitness buffs to run the perimeter of the blueberry fields to the “Finish Wine” with the promise of a glass of blueberry wine.

Categories: epic road trip, fulltime RV life, Harvest Hosts, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Saying Goodbye to 2020 with Friends Old and New

Yesterday, a dear friend drove down from Miami for lunch at our campsite. It is said that a good friend is one with whom you simply pick up the conversation where it left off before, regardless of the time in between. That is how it is with Craig! We have spirited discussions on wide-ranging topics and his sense of humor is unparalleled. Thank you, Craig, for making the drive down to share our anniversary with us.

We first met Craig almost two decades ago, when we all worked together in San Jose. He and Sarah went on to teach together again at a different school in Irvine, California. Through the years, he has helped us move, paint our house, inspired us with recommended books, and showered us with thoughtful gifts and love. A talented English teacher, Craig also writes thought-provoking devotionals on his FB page.

After Craig departed for home, Joe readied the fire pit for a blaze to welcome in the New Year. Fellow travelers from a few campsites over joined us after sunset with a bottle of prosecco. Tom (Italian) and Heather (American) are international travelers who met on a beach overseas. They now own an octagonal house in North Carolina which they have restored and rent out through Airbnb. Like us, their 2020-2021 international travel plans caused them to shift to Plan B and they are exploring the U.S. in a tiny Scamper.

As we spent the evening trading stories, it came to pass that Heather and Joe know someone in common. Of course, Joe Gill would find the one person in all of the 1.5 million acres of Everglades National Park, that would have a mutual friend! Joe is the original King of Six Degrees of Separation. He often makes the connection in two degrees or less!

Traveling gives one new perspective and meeting other people from different walks of life is a way to build empathy and lessen our fears about differences. The warm weather of southern Florida affords us the ability to safely sit outdoors and converse with new friends we meet along this journey. We are blessed and privileged to have this opportunity to enjoy our national and state parks and have unhurried conversations with interesting folks in person. We are optimistic that science and good sense will lead the world to healing, as the Covid-19 vaccines are implemented in 2021. As you make your New Year’s resolutions, we wish for you abundant love and meaningful connections in your life.

Categories: fulltime RV life, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , , | 1 Comment

Where The Highway Ends

We left Cornelia parked in the Everglades and motored with Mike all the way south on Hwy 1 to Key West. What a stunning drive! The picturesque ocean water shifts in color to pale blues, turquoises, and teals. Driving Mike through the Florida Keys has been on Sarah’s Bucket List for years and we hope to return post-pandemic to spend several days exploring this gorgeous part of the world.

We arrived in time for lunch and the driver of a beautifully restored iconic ‘57 Chevy convertible pulled up alongside us at a stoplight. He called out to compliment us on Mike and we responded in kind. Just before the light changed, we asked where was a good, safe spot for an outdoor lunch and without hesitating he recommended Garbo’s Grill @ Hanks – a food truck out back of a bar with live music. Instant success! We drove through old town, found the bar, and the server immediately filled up a bowl with fresh water for Molly. The tables were widely spaced outdoors and we feasted on Caribbean shrimp and Korean BBQ. The tropical breeze wafting over us combined with the good music made us feel transported to pre-Covid vacation times. We could have sat there drinking all afternoon!

Part of Sarah’s fascination with Key West is the literary connections of authors like Ernest Hemingway and Shel Silverstein. Hemingway’s house is preserved for tourists, but Silverstein’s house was crushed by a large banyan tree during a hurricane in 2017.

After walking downtown, we drove to the southernmost tip of the Continental U.S. but declined to wait in the block-long line for a photo at the monument. We snapped a picture of other folks as we drove past!

We discovered Dog Beach, where Molly and other canine pals could swim in the warm water. Even Sarah jumped a few waves!

Because this was a day trip, we reluctantly pointed north again but made two more stops on the way back to our covid-capsule at the campground. Kiki’s Sandbar is right on the water with terrific views and strong drinks. Leashed dogs are welcomed! And a trip to a fish market to pick up dinner and a slice of Key Lime pie completed our adventure.

GEOQUIZ: Name the southernmost beach in the United States.

Categories: beach walking, epic road trip, fulltime RV life, geoquiz, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Christmas in Review

We finish up our Christmas week here at John Prince RV Campground with lots of good memories and terrific weather. Thank you to our friends, Ken and Mary, in Delray Beach for including us in their Christmas festivities. Mary is an amazing chef!

We head to the Everglades today and will be boondocking without cell service or wifi access. Our kids have an emergency number to the ranger station, if anyone needs us. See you on the other side in 2021!

Categories: beach walking, fulltime RV life, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , , | 4 Comments

The Longest Night

Much has been written about the Northern Hemisphere’s Winter Solstice 2020. With Jupiter and Saturn creating a big buzz and Covid-19 still raging in many parts of the world, we yearn for stillness and hope.

Here at John Prince RV Campground, we were able to see the “Great Convergence” just before the planets set below the horizon. A cynical friend wondered why all the fuss when most nights urban dwellers pay no attention to the stars above. For us, taking note of the many miracles of the natural cycles of our world is a way to make sense of the complexities of our lives. It gives us perspective.

In practical terms, the longest night of our year gave us time to research and learn all about the three different electrical systems in Cornelia. Our carbon-monoxide monitor started beeping to alert us to dead coach batteries – no CO poisoning! Even though we were plugged in to 50-amp shore power here at the campground, our cabin lights dimmed and then failed. It turns out that the converter that keeps the coach batteries charged is not doing a good job of converting the shore power into battery power which in turn powers the house lights. We resolved the problem by starting the RV engine to recharge the house batteries, and strung Christmas lights and set up two lamps powered by AC sockets to avoid needing the house lights. Stay tuned to find out if Santa brings us a new converter!

Categories: fulltime RV life, retirement travel, RV living | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Apopka, Florida

We are wrapping up our ten-day visit to this gorgeous and well-kept campground. The sunsets have been magnificent and the park’s wildlife has kept Molly entertained.

Joe stayed busy this week mounting new decals on Cornelia and organizing the basement of our rig.

Categories: botanical gardens, fulltime RV life, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , | 4 Comments

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