responsible tourism

CHAHTA PIA (WE ARE CHOCTAW)

Living out the Chahta spirit of faith, family and culture.

Vision Statement of Choctaw Nation

We spent the afternoon experiencing the Choctaw Cultural Center in Durant, Oklahoma, where we met a vibrant community of Choctaw passionate about sharing their culture with us. The beautiful building opens to a large concourse where visitors first meet twelve living people from the twelve different districts of Choctaw Nation.

So often, non-natives are introduced to this continent’s indigenous history as something in the far-distant past, or worse, we are fed harmful negative stereotypes and disparaging images in today’s mainstream media that perpetuate generational trauma and the erasure efforts of modern governments. It was incredible to be introduced to Choctaw people from across southeastern Oklahoma in the same way we meet people just living their lives wherever we travel.

Different language? Yes. Different history from our experiences? Yes. Proud of their culture? Yes.

Below are some photos from the first exhibit in the Orientation Gallery. **We were rushing to view the entire exhibition before heading to the social dancing and my phone battery was dying, so these photos do no justice to the complexity of this first exhibit.

“We honor the past, live in the present and look to the future. We are resilient people, overcoming adversity with grace and dignity. Those who are Choctaw Proud work hard to be successful and give back to their communities.”

https://www.choctawnation.com/

We were invited to learn about Choctaw dancing in the auditorium. Five staff members stepped away from their desks and took turns explaining the significance of each dance. For millennia, Choctaw dances have been a way to reconnect with old friends from different clans and provide an opportunity to meet new people. Today, social dancing is still intended for participation and not performance. We were invited to join in and one need not be Choctaw to enjoy the dances.

One of the dancers told us that regalia is fun to wear for special occasions, in the same way we might dress up for a big wedding or gala event, But it is not necessary to wear every day! By dancing today in contemporary work wear, these Choctaw dancers are normalizing for themselves and for visitors the tradition of dance as a way to mingle and hang out with friends.

We learned that all ages dance and the dancers are accompanied by chanting. Rarely are words used – the chanter may be joined by the dancers for certain phrases and sometimes the chanter will use rhythm sticks to help mark the time or note a change in the steps. The Choctaw Nation is a matrilineal society and women dance in all three categories of dance: war dances, animal dances, and social dances.

A peaceful people, Choctaw historically would defend their territory when necessary. Eight days of dancing prepared the community for an impending battle. Upon the warriors’ return, more dancing would help re-assimilate them back into village life.

Choctaw have great respect for all living things and two of the dances today were inspired by animals. The turtle is an important animal to study and revere – by moving slowly and taking its time to move and make decisions, turtles are regarded as wise. Their long life demonstrates their success. The diamond-back rattlesnake teaches us to conserve our energy; a warning rattle alerts intruders. Taking a moment to look for escape before striking is a good lesson to us that encounters can end peacefully and violence is not always needed to co-exist.

Turtle Dance

Friendship, courtship, and marriage dances mark important social aspects of life. Today we learned the Friendship Dance.

The half-hour of dancing concluded with a short film detailing previously unknown stories about the last removal of Choctaw by train in 1903 from ancestral lands to present-day Oklahoma. You can watch it here online:

After the film, we headed to Champuli Cafe for fried bread and lavender lemonade before heading to the four permanent galleries depicting the journey of the Choctaw people from creation to the present day. Respect for nature and the interconnectedness of all living things is a core theme throughout the history of this nation.

We were both impressed with the quality and creative artistry of the first two exhibits. Sarah rushed through exhibits three and four and headed to the Gift Shop! Joe attempted to engage with all four exhibits but neither of us made it outside to the Living Village because the complex was closing. We gave ourselves only three hours to explore this facility and we easily could have spent two whole days immersing ourselves in all the things to see and do.

European contact brought devastating diseases and new weapons that decimated indigenous populations across the continent and left native survivors unable to physically defend their territory against Manifest Destiny. Less than 3% of the total US population today, many Native Americans still suffer from historical trauma, economic disparities, lack of access to healthcare and education, and exploitation of natural resources on their land.

The Choctaw Nation (215, 000 members*) has worked hard collectively to revive and pass on its cultural traditions, language, and values. By investing in themselves and teaching respect for shared values, this tribe has created economic opportunities and jobs for its members. With a focus on education and pride in cultural traditions, young people are connecting to their heritage. We can learn a lot from the resiliency of the Choctaw people. We encourage you to make a trip to Oklahoma and learn about Choctaw history and culture for yourself.

*to contextualize population numbers, there are 45 countries in the world that have smaller populations than Choctaw Nation.

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Donna, vita, libertà

Woman, life, freedom

As we emerged from the underground Metro in Milan, we found ourselves at the centre of a march in support of the women of Iran. It was powerful and emotional.

Are we doing enough to help?

Jin Jiyan Azadì

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Porta Nuova

We spent our last Sunday in Milano exploring the Porta Nuova district – an astonishing urban renewal project that turned industrial wastelands into upscale architectural marvels and large parks, including the Library of Trees.

“Biblioteca degli Alberi” is a ten-hectare urban park with 135,000 plants and 500 trees forming 22 different circular “forest- rooms.”

A Sunday market was filled with mostly locals and the vendors offered a variety of beautiful crafts, fresh foods, and patio plants. Joe especially enjoyed his vegan (!) green smoothie for lunch.

We were impressed by the modern architecture and green construction efforts. Two residential towers are built as vertical forests – amazing to see! Other buildings and the green spaces that connect them were equally interesting and were being well-utilized by locals and visitors. It was a real boost to our nervous systems to re-connect with plants and trees after days of urban living with its cacophonous soundscape of motorized vehicles and concrete dreariness.

I think that I shall never see

A poem lovely as a tree.

A tree whose hungry mouth is prest

Against the earth’s sweet flowing breast;

A tree that looks at God all day,

And lifts her leafy arms to pray;

A tree that may in Summer wear

A nest of robins in her hair;

Upon whose bosom snow has lain;

Who intimately lives with rain.

Poems are made by fools like me,

But only God can make a tree.

(From: Trees by Joyce Kilmer)

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Moon over Parma

We spent five lovely nights in Parma, in a studio apartment on the fourth floor of a building with a bakery on the ground level. Our noses woke us up briefly most mornings around 3:15 a.m. as the ovens cranked up and the most delicious smells of bread and cinnamon wafted up to our abode. Four or five hours later, Joe would venture downstairs to choose something yummy for our breakfast!

The very old building has a very narrow stairwell. A rope and pulley system is used to bring parcels, luggage, and other bulky stuff up and down. Here you can see Sarah hoisting up Joe’s suitcase.

On our first night, we were delighted to stumble across a free outdoor concert in Piazzale della Pace (Peace Square) near the Verdi Monument. Parma hosts a month-long festival each year dedicated to the 19th century composer and dozens of free events are co-currently running during the festival under the flag “Verdi Off.” We danced to this jazz-rock-opera ensemble as they interpreted operas, arias, movie themes, rhumbas, blues, and tangos. La Toscanini Next is comprised of nine musicians and they not only played together well, but they all looked like they were having fun, too!

Astor Piazzolla’s “Libertango”

After the concert, we roamed around, peeking in old buildings, shops, and restaurants. Eventually, we chose an outdoor cafe for a sumptuous dinner, before walking back across the river to our side of town.

On Sunday, we went to Mass at Chiesa di Santa Croce and then walked through the gardens of Palazzo Ducale. We took a spritz break at the small cafe in the park, before wandering on our way.

View of our apartment from the river path. Our balcony is top row, second from the left (pale blue/green building).

View from our balcony.

On Monday, we walked the city on a food tour and on Tuesday, we took an excursion with Virginia to her village (population 800) where we learned to make tagliatelle using her granny’s recipe and techniques. We lunched together on their balcony before she drove us back to the city.

On our last full day in Parma, we visited Teatro Farnese, Galleria nazionale di Parma and Biblioteca Palatina, all located in Palazzo della Pilotta. Unfortunately, the Bodoni exhibition was closed.

Teatro Farnese is an incredible wooden theatre built originally in the early 17th century. Our guide told us only nine productions took place over the course of its first one hundred years, due to the complexities of 600 stagehands needed for each epic show.

Theatre major Sarah has never seen such a steeply sloped stage in person. OSHA regulations prevent this sharp of an incline on modern stages. Hard to convey in my amateur photo!

Healing of the Blind Man by El Greco
La Scapigliata by Da Vinci

Have you ever seen 800,000 volumes gathered in one private library hall? The silence and the scent of books was unlike anything Sarah had previously experienced. The collection was commissioned in 1761, and includes a greek Codex written on 220 tiny pages of parchment in 1009 A.D.

On our final night in Parma, we dined on saffron risotto with veal ossobuco alla Beppe. For twenty-five years, the owner of Hosteria da Beppe has been cooking typical Emilian fare with local ingredients. Beppe also hosts, bartends, takes orders, serves, and busses. We assume he does the dishes, too. As far as we could learn, he is a one-man show. And cooks ah-mazing food! And he gets great reviews from everyone! We were super impressed with his friendly and efficient service and we highly recommend all visitors to Parma to eat at Beppe’s restaurant.

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di Parma

We toured Parma with Michelle Valeria, an incredible guide who introduced us to the history of three major Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) food products: prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and traditional aceto balsamico. Additionally, we tasted Violetta di Parma candies, four kinds of pasta, two local wines, and finished with renowned gelato.

Michelle is a Parma native and has a Master’s degree in art history. She is passionate about the history, science, and artisanal processes behind the famous foods of her hometown. She trained as a cheese judge and spends time at the regional farms, getting to know the craftspeople who produce these amazing DOP products using centuries-old techniques. We were awed by her depth of knowledge and as educators, we were impressed with her ability to pace the information in an engaging way.

Check out her Airbnb experience offerings: https://abnb.me/yYRlo2641tb

Michelle taught us about six different kinds of cured meats – from the history of the curing process to the husbandry and genetics of the pigs.
Rapt students listening to our cheese teacher. Note that the cheeseboards have been decimated by A+ students learning how to apply a sensory analysis (visual, tactile, scent, taste) to our samples.
Michelle followed up on the varied interests of our tour group and included history lessons on art, music, architecture, and perfume, in addition to the food focus. It was like a graduate seminar condensed into a half-day!

Her flow, her confidence, her ability to answer any question-she was just amazing. The range of her knowledge, whether it was art, history, music, architecture, food, is astounding. Like a good teacher, she directed her answers to each of us, checking in on our individual engagement.

Joseph J. Gill, retired Headmaster
Patiently answering all of our questions!
Final course!
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From Verona to Mantua

Hence from Verona art thou banishèd.

Be patient, for the world is broad and wide.

Friar Lawrence to Romeo (Romeo & Juliet. 3.3.16-17)

Our Verona tour guide told us that Romeo rode his horse to Mantua but the city gates were closed due to plague. William Shakespeare wrote that Romeo receives a letter in Mantua from Juliet and is briefly happy before being wrongly told that his wife is dead. This disturbing news prompts Romeo to purchase poison from a Mantovan apothecary and race back to Verona to commit suicide.

While our Veronese guide seemed to believe that Shakespeare’s play Romeo & Juliet was a documentary, we know that Willy was inspired by Ovid, da Porto, and Bandello. Matteo Bandello lived in Mantua in the 16th century, working as a soldier, monk, and short-story writer. The historic piazzas and Renaissance buildings built on top of Medieval buildings makes it interesting to walk around town pretending to be Romeo.

We toured Museo di Palazzo d’Arco with an Italian-speaking guide. The museum provided an english-language booklet that described each room and the artworks contained therein. We took some pictures in the garden before the tour began, but were transfixed by the indoor furnishings, paintings, and sculptures and forgot to take photos! This overwhelming assemblage, which dates back several centuries from the aristocratic d’Arco family, was donated to the city in 1973 and art history students are kept busy each year tracing the provenance of the undocumented paintings in this huge collection.

The new Duke of Mantua and his bride!

Arma virumque cano

thus begins Virgil’s epic poem, The Aeneid
We picnicked in this garden dedicated to Virgil, born near Mantua in 70 BC.

We really enjoyed our three nights in Mantova (Mantua) and could happily return for a longer visit. The municipality limits car/truck traffic (ZTL – Zona a Traffico Limitato) in the old city center which encourages pedestrians and cyclists to access local businesses, including an abundance of cafés and restaurants. The market on Thursdays stretches across several piazzas and side streets and offers just about anything you might be looking for. We purchased fabric (4+ metres for only €5), shorts (€2), sewing needles and thread for a button repair, and ingredients for our picnic lunch.

We are impressed with the clean streets, bicycle commuters, and friendliness of locals. Our Airbnb apartment was well-appointed; it included a washing machine with detergent, daily maid service, and coupons for breakfast at a local café.

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Balliamo sul mondo

It was drizzling as we arrived in Verona, but undeterred crowds draped in improvised rain ponchos were lined up outside the 2000-year-old L’Arena, waiting for Italian pop star, Ligabue. Over the next five nights, we learned the rhythms of his set as our apartment was just a few metres around the corner from this ancient open-air venue. As we walked home from dinner each night, we enjoyed seeing fans of all ages wearing concert tour shirts and headbands (!) while singing along. Sarah read that he is touring 30 years of hits in one hour. How cool that a 20,000-seat amphitheater completed in 30 A.D. (50 years BEFORE the Roman Colosseum) is still hosting large-scale concerts and events?

We open in Venice, we next play Verona, then on to Cremona,

Lots of laughs in Cremona, eh boys, our next jump in Parma, that dopy mopie menace,

And Mantua and Padua, and then we open again. Where?

Song by Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra, and Sammy Davis Jr.

We joined a tour guide on Saturday morning to get the lay of the land. The weather was sunny and warm, after a week of rain, so locals and tourists thronged the squares, shops, and cafés. Our guide was a bit scripted and probably better suited to telling stories to young children, but we persevered and the walk around the major points of interest helped us find new alleys to explore on our own later. Weirdly, our guide was fixated on re-telling Shakespeare’s fictional tale “The Most Excellent and Lamentable Tragedy of Romeo and Juliet” as if it really happened. When we pointed out the incongruity of a twentieth century balcony built in the small courtyard of a former inn being linked to a fictional 12th century window overlooking orchards, we were gently shushed and promised that she would soon reveal the true story to us. We stopped protesting and focused on taking pictures of the range of architectural styles in Verona.

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The Perfect Horse

We toured the Spanish Riding School in Vienna. The guide was knowledgeable and patiently answered all of our questions. Sarah started reading Elizabeth Letts’ book and quickly became engrossed in the history of the Lipizzan (alt. Lipizzaner) during the 20th century.

Having read Jojo Moyes’ novel, “The Horse Dancer” a few years ago, it was captivating to tour these stables. Photos were not permitted inside the stables, because previous tourists have posted irresponsible pictures on social media. These animals are under the best care, with regular rotations between training, countryside vacations, and performing.

Stallions arrive to the school from their country stable around the age of four. That’s right – the first FOUR years of their lives are spent frolicking in fields, simply being horses! They gain natural strength from living free in herds doing natural horse stuff. They make friends with other horses. They spend time as foals with their mamas.

If selected to train in Vienna, they are assigned to a rider who then spends the rest of their life devoted to the care of that specific horse. Each rider has 4-5 horses in their care. Sequential training takes 6-8 years (!) before a horse is ready to perform. And horses then retire from performance between 18-24 years of age. They live out retirement back on the farm, enjoying a pampered life.

The bond between rider and horse is exceptional. No coercion is used. The stallion must want to work with the rider. The rider is there to invite the horse to perform and to ensure the health and care of the horse.

Categories: agritourism, central europe, responsible tourism, retirement travel, Vienna | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Best and Worst of Vienna

EDITED: You can read lots of travel stories about the famed “grantig” or “raunzen” of the Viennese people. Some writers encourage us to write off Viennese rudeness as “Kulturgut.” Others say it is hopelessly ingrained in the descendants of a former aristocratic capital. We recognize how fortunate we are to travel to foreign cities around the world and interacting with grumpy servers and subway workers is definitely a first-world problem!

Sarah in particular wrestles with high emotional sensitivity and doesn’t easily let rude behavior roll off her back. Intellectually, we know that a person’s bad behavior is a reflection of their worldview and we try not to take anything personally. That said, we liked our collective experiences in Prague way better than Vienna!

We read about the sullen service in some Viennese establishments. Sarah was not prepared for the downright rude behavior. A sidewalk cafe waiter was so busy chatting with his non-customer cigarette-puffing friend that her order was sidelined. At a different cafe, the server brought us food we did not order; when we challenged him, he pretended to be “forgetful” and re-plated the food. But then up-charged us for the stuff we didn’t order. A subway ticket-taker berated us “Americans who do not know lots of things” for not reading the fine print on our ticket, when our simple apology and his ticket validation would have sufficed. Our Air BnB host messed up our e-keys TWICE locking us out of our rental apartment and never apologized.

On the flip side, we were enchanted with the music programme at MozartHaus and were especially impressed with the skill of the young pianist. The cafe at the Belvedere Palace served delicious food with seemingly happy career waiters. The food and service at Kellergwolb was outstanding. Our tour guide at the Spanish Riding School was knowledgeable and patient with our questions. Dinner at the Melkerstiftskeller, on the advice of our friend Angela Malik-Stenson, was delightful. And “Sturm” is a new harvest favorite of Sarah – basically young wine (low APV) that is still fermenting, slightly bubbly, a bit cloudy, and only available for a few weeks in the fall.

Categories: botanical gardens, central europe, central europe, european history, Danube, responsible tourism, Vienna | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Schmetterlinghaus

When you are retired, on Wednesdays in September you can treat yourself to extravagant breakfasts in Vienna, Austria. This café was popular with folks of all ages: university students were sharing brunch and studying; business people were meeting for coffee and important conversations; and wandering tourists like us were there to enjoy the food and the neighborhood.

After savoring our delicious meal, Joe surprised Sarah with a tour of Schmetterlinghaus (Butterfly House), established in 1990 as a cooperative project between private and public institutions. There are 40 different species of tropical butterflies from sustainable butterfly farms in Costa Rica, Belize, Surinam, Thailand and the Philippines. The farms send pupae to Schmetterlinghaus where they hatch and fly free around visitors. None of the butterflies at Schmetterlinghaus are endangered species.

Caligo memnon (owl butterfly)
Morpho peleides (common Morpho)
Danaus plexippus (Monarch)

Only a few of the species breed in the conservatory, as caterpillars eat species-specific plants and the building is not large enough to accommodate all of the plants that would be needed to feed hundreds of different caterpillars. We learned the Owl butterfly generally lays her eggs on banana leaves and the Heliconius species on passion flower leaves. Our familiar Monarch caterpillar we know eats only milkweed and is one of the few species that reproduces in the conservatory. All the plants in the Butterfly House are free of pesticides and are propagated by the Österreichischen Bundesgärten (Federal Gardens of Austria).

Shortly after entering the palatial greenhouse, a tattered Owl butterfly attached itself to Joe. Visitors are encouraged to move slowly and many people are anxious to get the Insta-perfect selfie with a butterfly perched on their outstretched hand. Joe exudes calm and peace and this older butterfly knew it was safe to hang out on Joe for the afternoon. After many minutes, Joe slowly started to walk up the path to the top of the waterfall and his buddy stayed attached to him. Joe gave up trying to dislodge his new friend and continued to explore the rest of the Butterfly House.

Morphos look like Disney animations – their iridescence is incredible!

When it was finally time to leave, Joe gently moved “his” butterfly to a nectar stand where it hopefully felt safe as it was likely near the end of its short life (average 130 days).

We later learned that the male owl butterfly is known to spend its days drinking fermented juices of rotting fruits in the insect equivalent of dive bars and takes to the skies at dusk drunkenly seeking aerial combat with other males. That explains the tattered wings!

Butterfly Whisperer
Categories: botanical gardens, central europe, european history, responsible tourism, retirement travel, Vienna | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

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