epic road trip

Just deserts

We tend to use the word “desert” to describe emptiness. For example, “The old house was deserted, after the family moved out ten years ago.”

But our experience with living on the edge of the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, AZ confirms for us that the desert is teeming with a variety of plant and animal life. A pair of Great Horned Owls and singing coyotes serenaded us each night this week. At dawn and dusk, the bunnies and mourning doves were busy. One morning, a Gila woodpecker amused Sarah by tapping fruitlessly on a neighbor’s plastic TV antenna atop their trailer. And the Saguaro are endlessly fascinating in their assortment of sizes and shapes.

Saguaro grow slowly. Arms may appear when the cactus reaches 9-10 feet tall (around age 40+). This increases the water storage capacity of the plant and increases its procreation potential by producing more blooms. It might take 75 years before it first blooms. They are considered adults when they reach 125 years old and with optimal temperature and water conditions may live to be 200 years old.

Nan Burn, head of the Desert Foothills Land Trust’s Desert Awareness committee, says, “They’re pretty magical cacti. Against all odds they survive. Each root has about 2,000 seeds and the odds of them germinating are incredibly small. I have great respect for them.”

But not everyone has respect for them. The East Valley Tribune reported on a story of two dunderheads:

In 1982, two roommates who apparently were neither particularly conservation-minded nor of superior intelligence grabbed their shotguns and ventured out into the desert just west of Lake Pleasant.

One of them decided to blow up a cactus or two, and, finding the first, small one easy, took aim at a 26-foot-tall saguaro that was estimated to be 100 years old. He blasted away, severing a four-foot arm that fell on him and killed him.

Some would call that desert justice.

https://www.eastvalleytribune.com/get_out/the-mystical-giant-saguaro-is-not-to-be-trifled-with/article_6a86d5a1-bb2f-589e-afa2-5c04f54cc69d.html

We spent an afternoon touring the Titan Missile Museum, which is the last of the 54 Titan II missile sites that were on alert across the United States from 1963 to 1987. Our guide, Dave, actually worked at the site for ten years in the 1970s. Originally from Worcester, MA, he joined the Air Force straight out of high school and was part of a team of four men from the 390th Strategic Missile Wing hosted by Davis-Monthan AFB. His team worked 24-hour shifts underground keeping the Titan II missile on alert as part of the ICBMs deployed around Arizona, Kansas, and Arkansas. When not on missile silo duty, Dave was training, problem-solving, and being evaluated weekly by psychiatrists.

As we toured the site, Dave told us specifically the safety measures and redundancies that were built into the missile silo and its maintenance. A red bucket hangs by the second telephone (after you give a code at the first telephone by the gate you have three minutes to reach the second phone by the door) which is where the team’s commander would burn his entry code after reciting it into the second telephone. As we descended 55 steps underground, we observed these huge tension coils and learned the whole silo was essentially suspended so it could withstand a Soviet attack and still be able to fire its rocket in retaliation.

Peace through deterrence is the theory that all nuclear-power governments promise only retaliatory annihilation; therefore no one will want to be the first to strike, because it would guarantee World War III and the mutual destruction of both countries (e.g. the Soviet Union and the United States). Listening to Dave, the feeling of finality, knowing that their mission was to kill the people of another country, and possibly end the world, is experienced by only the few men (and now women) who work with these nuclear weapons around the globe. We can never imagine the true burden that Dave and his colleagues have lived with. The juxtaposition of the way he alluded to the enormity of the responsibility of turning the key with the reality of his own certain death had a huge emotional impact on us. The psychological awareness and understanding of his role to complete his mission is unlike anything most of us will ever experience.

Dave walked us through the launch sequence, asking for two volunteers to sit at the command desk and work out the codes and turn the two keys. Sarah declined. But it was fascinating to hear Dave tell us what it felt like to work there for ten years. How every test alert was not known to be a test, because the drills were run as if they were real. For ten years, Dave and his crew-mates lived in a perpetual heightened state of readiness, not knowing if each day would be their last. They were consciously aware that the silo was a Soviet target and they would have only minutes to retaliate with their launch sequence, should incoming missiles be launched from a hostile nation. He says he still gets a funny feeling when he plays the alarm for tours.

Categories: epic road trip, fulltime RV life, nomads, responsible tourism, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

Walkin’ On The Moon

Giant steps are what you take
Walking on the moon
I hope my leg don’t break
Walking on the moon
We could walk forever
Walking on the moon
We could live together
Walking on, walking on the moon

Song by The Police

We only spent two nights in New Mexico, driving straight through with only three stops: Billy The Kid Museum, World’s Largest Pistachio, and White Sands National Park.

Visiting the world’s largest gypsum dunefield on a sunny morning was like visiting the moon. Our brains interpreted the hard-packed gypsum road as a snowy road lightly sanded in winter. With constant shifts in the dunes from daily winds, a park employee is kept busy plowing and grading the 8-mile loop road and large pullout parking areas.

The outdoor temps were gorgeous and we walked barefoot through the dunes. Again, our brains were slightly confused by the visual and sensory conflict; the dune looks like it should be hot sand, but the texture of cool, smooth gypsum feels like talc.

We had to stop for a photo with the world’s largest pistachio.

GEO-QUIZ: Where is the world’s largest pecan?

Categories: epic road trip, fulltime RV life, geoquiz, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

Celebrating at The Big Texan

We drove over 700 miles to get our first Covid-19 vaccination shots. Neither snow nor rain nor sleet nor gloom of night stayed us from our long-sought appointments. We are grateful and we celebrated with a delicious steak dinner in a private booth at The Big Texan. Stay healthy, friends.

GEO-QUIZ: In which town did we receive our shots?

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Welcome to Texas

Six days delayed in Louisiana for RV repairs meant we lost some campground deposits/reservations. We drove 9+ hours in one day to get to Goose Island State Park in southern Texas to get back on track, but Winter Storm Uri was traveling quickly to meet us there. Temperatures were FIFTY (50) degrees colder than normal. The campground was lovely, especially for birders, and has well-maintained trails through the oak forests and along the marshlands. We hope to come back when it is warmer!

During a break in the weather, Joe ventured out to the stores to look for another heater, but the shelves were empty everywhere. He was able to take the ferry to Port Aransas to connect with a middle-school friend and they had a good visit.

Wisely, given the weather predictions, we extended our stay three more nights. We had to move to a different campsite, but we were grateful to be sheltered in the oak trees. We glimpsed some birds during a sunny stretch. Mostly we hunkered down in Cornelia reading books, watching the terrible traffic reports on the Texas news, and congratulating ourselves for staying off the treacherous roads.

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Cajun Hospitality

Well, it took a full week for Cornelia to get back on the road. We are grateful for our friends who let us crash in their guest suite in Lafayette, LA. On our first night, they took us to safely hear LIVE MUSIC outdoors for only the second time since March 2020. Hideaway renovated an old house to create a bar/music venue with the feel of an old Louisiana house dance.

We both love Cajun food and if we had to break down somewhere, we are happy that we got to eat well all week, waiting on the RV repairs! Po’boys, oysters, crayfish, etouffee, fried and boiled shrimps, and jambalaya are just some of the samplings. Joe learned how to make jambalaya over an open flame from the master, Duane. Starting with about five pounds of meat, there was a lot of jambalaya in the giant cast-iron pot.

After a leisurely lunch at Chez Jacqueline’s in Breaux Bridge, we were treated to a winter boat tour of the bayou near Atchafalaya Basin Landing. To warm up when we returned to shore, we grabbed some beers on the porch of Turtle Bar, where the resident dock cat curled up with Sarah for a nap. Of course.

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It’s Been A Day

Drive shaft fell OFF Cornelia (RV) in rural Louisiana this afternoon.

Very nice Sheriff stopped to help. He called his friend, who had the right kind of equipment.

Very nice tow truck operator took us to local truck service center.

Very nice truck repairman hopes to reconnect the shaft tomorrow.

Thank goodness we are towing a spare bedroom!

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King Cake for Breakfast & Daiquiris for Lunch

All NY resolutions of salads and moderate meal portions were paused for our nine days of food heaven in Louisiana. Who doesn’t love Randazzo’s King Cake for breakfast every day during carnival season???

We camped at a great state park across the lake from NOLA with easy access to the causeway for visits with friends on both sides of the water. Thank you to everyone who made time in their schedules to hang out with the Gills!

GEOQUIZ: Where in the world did a bakery substitute Baby Yoda for Baby Jesus in their carnival cakes?

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Davis Bayou

We just finished a week at Davis Bayou State Campground, where we learned that shower #1 has the most hot water and the best water pressure since we left Cape Cod. Sarah actually washed her hair twice this week!

She also had her first Guinness in months (bliss!) and while temperatures were cool, we enjoyed lots of sunshine while walking in the area. This part of Mississippi was hard hit by back-to-back hurricanes a few years ago and recovery in many places is still slow. The campground is filled with snowbirds like us and the park system abuts a neighborhood with a pedestrian gate so many locals come through the park to run, fish, cycle, etc.

On Wednesday, we were glued to PBS watching the inauguration proceedings in D.C., much like the rest of the country. Molly had a bath at Tractor Supply and received her regular monthly cytopoint injection at Bienville Animal Medical Center.

Categories: beach walking, epic road trip, fulltime RV life, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

Florida’s First Lavender Farm

We stayed overnight at Southern Grace Lavender Farm through the Harvest Hosts program. Jason and Kari are building something very special on this farm. Sarah is a long-time user and connoisseur of all things lavender; their small-batch products are some of the best she has ever sampled, including trips to lavender farms in California, British Columbia, and France. Cornelia smells great this week as we enjoy their lavender-plumeria candle. Sarah has been wanting to try a shampoo bar to eliminate another source of plastic in our lives and her long curly locks are responding nicely to the heavenly-scented lavender-tea tree shampoo bar from Southern Grace Lavender Farm! And for two nights, we have slumbered like babies with the lavender-eucalyptus pillow mist on our curtains above our bed. With reasonable prices, environmentally responsible packaging, and absolutely gorgeous products invented and made at the farm by owners Jason and Kari, we recommend our friends check them out for online ordering. Did we mention the pastoral landscape? And the fresh eggs? And the bluebirds?

Categories: epic road trip, fulltime RV life, Harvest Hosts, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Bees, Cheese, and Blueberry Wine

Three nights of agri-tourism through Harvest Hosts gave us new insights into professional pollinators, the benefits of goat milk, and the anti-oxidant power of blueberry wine.

The Bee Barn

We sampled honey and picked up luscious lotions to combat the dry winter air. We learned that the Peace River Bees travel the country to pollinate commercial crops like almonds and citrus in California, apples and cranberries in Maine, and even an assortment of crops in the prairies. Molly made friends with the neighbor’s cows.

Proctor’s Goat Farm and Goat Life

Curious and intelligent goats invited us to walk the twelve acres of pastures and woodland trails with them. They seemed eager to show us their favorite edibles (Spanish moss and palmetto were both popular choices!) and the eldest of the herd adopted Joe and never left his side. In the morning, we were invited to watch the milking and Sarah even got in the parlor and milked one of the gentle girls. We left with a fridge full of fresh fromage de chèvre and goat milk fudge!

Whispering Oaks Winery

This bustling estate introduced us to eight new wines all made from blueberries. Because it was Friday night, we were able to have a steak dinner served outside with a live blues band on the ample patio. A traveling circus was set up in one of the adjoining pastures and on Saturday morning, a 5K race challenged fitness buffs to run the perimeter of the blueberry fields to the “Finish Wine” with the promise of a glass of blueberry wine.

Categories: epic road trip, fulltime RV life, Harvest Hosts, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

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