epic road trip

GEOQUIZ

Identify the location of this cabin:

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CHAHTA PIA (WE ARE CHOCTAW)

Living out the Chahta spirit of faith, family and culture.

Vision Statement of Choctaw Nation

We spent the afternoon experiencing the Choctaw Cultural Center in Durant, Oklahoma, where we met a vibrant community of Choctaw passionate about sharing their culture with us. The beautiful building opens to a large concourse where visitors first meet twelve living people from the twelve different districts of Choctaw Nation.

So often, non-natives are introduced to this continent’s indigenous history as something in the far-distant past, or worse, we are fed harmful negative stereotypes and disparaging images in today’s mainstream media that perpetuate generational trauma and the erasure efforts of modern governments. It was incredible to be introduced to Choctaw people from across southeastern Oklahoma in the same way we meet people just living their lives wherever we travel.

Different language? Yes. Different history from our experiences? Yes. Proud of their culture? Yes.

Below are some photos from the first exhibit in the Orientation Gallery. **We were rushing to view the entire exhibition before heading to the social dancing and my phone battery was dying, so these photos do no justice to the complexity of this first exhibit.

“We honor the past, live in the present and look to the future. We are resilient people, overcoming adversity with grace and dignity. Those who are Choctaw Proud work hard to be successful and give back to their communities.”

https://www.choctawnation.com/

We were invited to learn about Choctaw dancing in the auditorium. Five staff members stepped away from their desks and took turns explaining the significance of each dance. For millennia, Choctaw dances have been a way to reconnect with old friends from different clans and provide an opportunity to meet new people. Today, social dancing is still intended for participation and not performance. We were invited to join in and one need not be Choctaw to enjoy the dances.

One of the dancers told us that regalia is fun to wear for special occasions, in the same way we might dress up for a big wedding or gala event, But it is not necessary to wear every day! By dancing today in contemporary work wear, these Choctaw dancers are normalizing for themselves and for visitors the tradition of dance as a way to mingle and hang out with friends.

We learned that all ages dance and the dancers are accompanied by chanting. Rarely are words used – the chanter may be joined by the dancers for certain phrases and sometimes the chanter will use rhythm sticks to help mark the time or note a change in the steps. The Choctaw Nation is a matrilineal society and women dance in all three categories of dance: war dances, animal dances, and social dances.

A peaceful people, Choctaw historically would defend their territory when necessary. Eight days of dancing prepared the community for an impending battle. Upon the warriors’ return, more dancing would help re-assimilate them back into village life.

Choctaw have great respect for all living things and two of the dances today were inspired by animals. The turtle is an important animal to study and revere – by moving slowly and taking its time to move and make decisions, turtles are regarded as wise. Their long life demonstrates their success. The diamond-back rattlesnake teaches us to conserve our energy; a warning rattle alerts intruders. Taking a moment to look for escape before striking is a good lesson to us that encounters can end peacefully and violence is not always needed to co-exist.

Turtle Dance

Friendship, courtship, and marriage dances mark important social aspects of life. Today we learned the Friendship Dance.

The half-hour of dancing concluded with a short film detailing previously unknown stories about the last removal of Choctaw by train in 1903 from ancestral lands to present-day Oklahoma. You can watch it here online:

After the film, we headed to Champuli Cafe for fried bread and lavender lemonade before heading to the four permanent galleries depicting the journey of the Choctaw people from creation to the present day. Respect for nature and the interconnectedness of all living things is a core theme throughout the history of this nation.

We were both impressed with the quality and creative artistry of the first two exhibits. Sarah rushed through exhibits three and four and headed to the Gift Shop! Joe attempted to engage with all four exhibits but neither of us made it outside to the Living Village because the complex was closing. We gave ourselves only three hours to explore this facility and we easily could have spent two whole days immersing ourselves in all the things to see and do.

European contact brought devastating diseases and new weapons that decimated indigenous populations across the continent and left native survivors unable to physically defend their territory against Manifest Destiny. Less than 3% of the total US population today, many Native Americans still suffer from historical trauma, economic disparities, lack of access to healthcare and education, and exploitation of natural resources on their land.

The Choctaw Nation (215, 000 members*) has worked hard collectively to revive and pass on its cultural traditions, language, and values. By investing in themselves and teaching respect for shared values, this tribe has created economic opportunities and jobs for its members. With a focus on education and pride in cultural traditions, young people are connecting to their heritage. We can learn a lot from the resiliency of the Choctaw people. We encourage you to make a trip to Oklahoma and learn about Choctaw history and culture for yourself.

*to contextualize population numbers, there are 45 countries in the world that have smaller populations than Choctaw Nation.

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Texas is still big

Tuesday dawned sunny but smoggy in El Paso. The local geography causes air pressure inversions that trap pollution from cars, trucks, trains, etc. along with emissions from local industries.

As we pointed ourselves northeast, we noticed a drastic improvement in Mike’s performance. We spent the day driving through west Texas, dominated by oil and gas fields. Sarah read that the Texas Department of Highway spreads 30,000 pounds (!) of wildflower seeds each year along the ditches. The Texas state flower, bluebonnet, is a regional species of spring-flowering lupin. There are a few different legends about how this blue-purple wildflower got to Texas. One 18th century story claims a Spanish nun appeared to indigenous people to teach them about Jesus. She was wearing a blue cloak over her brown habit and appeared several times to two different groups. On the morning after her last appearance, the fields were covered in a new flower the same color as the nun’s cloak. Even more miraculous is that the nun in this story never actually left her convent in Spain. It is said that she projected herself to North America through deep contemplation and prayer.

We spent the night in Seymour, Texas at the HH Creek Inn. We split a delicious 16 oz ribeye dinner at the Rusty Spur Saloon and thoroughly enjoyed watching the Breakaway Roping competition from the Lazy E Arena on the newly launched Cowgirl channel.

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On the road again…

We bade farewell to sunny Yuma on Saturday and struck east for Deming, New Mexico. Crossing the Continental Divide at more than 4, 000 feet, Mike was struggling with the winds and the long, slow inclines. We made it into town at 7:57 pm local time; Si Senor (highly recommended to us by friends) closes at 8:00 pm, so we tried Cactus Cafe, instead. Delicious tacos, a homemade mushroom swiss burger and cold beer filled us up!

On Sunday morning, Mike just did not want to start. We were stuck until garages would open on Monday. There is not much to do in Deming, New Mexico. Joe made two trips to Walmart on foot and we settled in for an afternoon of Netflix and naps. PBJ for dinner!

No one in Deming could work on Mike, but the VanAlert app pointed us to Fox Land Auto in El Paso, Texas – 82 miles away. Gerry from AAA re-arranged his morning plans and safely towed us to Rico’s garage. Journey was a champ riding alone in the van being towed backwards for an hour and a half, while we sat in the tow truck cab with Gerry. it was about this time last year that Mike broke down on our way to Vegas. I think he’s trying to tell us he wants to stay in Yuma.

Rico conferred with our Vegas mechanic who rebuilt the engine last summer. After running some compression tests, we all agreed a leaky valve was probably the culprit. Rico also installed an electrical starter component, giving us more power and reliability.

We took an Uber to the Travelodge and checked in for the afternoon. Rico and his father had Mike fixed by the end of the day!

Rico, Sr. trained in Germany – worked on VWs for his whole career!

We celebrated with dinner at Carlos & Mickey’s Cantina. Sarah reacquainted herself with melon margaritas!

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The Beginning of Our Journey

Adopting another dog, after Molly, was not a sure thing for us. In our marriage, we have been blessed with three extraordinary dogs, all adopted as adults/seniors. Shasta taught us the benefits of living with a retired service dog and Molly eventually completed training to work as Sarah’s service dog. When we started to look for a new dog, we were daunted by how the rescue/foster system has devolved into a money-making cottage industry. Folks are adopting the best-behaved dogs from the shelters and then re-packaging them as available for adoption for huge “re-homing” fees, rivaling the cost of purchasing a pure-bred puppy.

We continued our research and met several candidates in shelters in different states. None of them passed all of the tests we had set; a potential service dog must be calm and relaxed, responsive when approached, and accept boundaries and training readily. A dog that is clearly frustrated, reactive to people or other dogs, has issues with resource guarding, or is overly sensitive to touch cannot easily be trained to work as a service companion. Hip health is also important. It has been more than thirty years since Sarah last raised a puppy and Joe has only lived with adult dogs. Puppies are a big commitment and require a huge investment of time and patience. But as our search for an adult rescue dog with potential for service training continued with no definite results, we started to consider the benefits of puppy-raising.

This youngster was born in Indiana last June at Foxwood K-9. This extraordinary kennel is powered by solar and geothermal systems and the dogs are raised with love. She was ready to come home to us at the end of November. Because we were getting ready to leave Cape Cod for the winter, it was tricky to figure out the best way for our new pup to get to us. Delivery options were compromised by airline restrictions so we landed on the idea of picking her up directly from the kennel in Shipshewana.

We flew to Detroit on a Tuesday morning, picked up a one-way rental car, and drove to Indiana. We picked up puppy supplies and the puppy and headed out west. Thank goodness she adapted to car travel without incident! Mornings were spent bonding with Sarah in the front seat and the rest of the afternoon was spent sleeping in her crate. The three nights in hotels were relatively easy as she slept in her crate without complaint.

On our second day, we passed a sign that said we were 90 degrees west of Greenwich – one-quarter of the way around the world! An hour later we saw Mark Twain’s boyhood home before crossing the Mississippi River into Missouri. Chillicothe, MO is the Home of Sliced Bread and Sarah was stoked to stop at Missouri Star Quilts. After lunch, we passed by the birthplace of Jesse James. And in Kansas City, we met Boon and his human who works at Bar K Dog Park. We slept in Hays, KS.

Thursday’s adventures included meeting a flock of chickadees in a pre-dawn cold walk before loading up the car and heading into Colorado where we gained another hour due to entering Mountain Standard Time. The temperature was a bit warmer (56 F) as we cruised through Denver and headed up into the Rocky Mountains. When Journey woke up after lunch we were at ten thousand feet elevation in Vail and found Bighorn Park to introduce her to the snow. We stopped in Green River, UT (pop. 847) for the night – known for watermelons and its annual Melon Fest.

Friday morning was a bit tense as we got caught in a blizzard coming over the summit to Salina, UT. While Journey slept blissfully unaware, Joe did a great job navigating the un-plowed road and we made it to Mom’s Cafe for breakfast by mid-morning. We time-traveled to Mesquite Dog Park (Pacific Time Zone) before steering into the megalopolis called Vegas.

We saw a lot of sights and experienced a range of weather conditions (sun, rain, sleet, snow, winds, hail) on our journey cross-country. We returned the rental car in Las Vegas, picked up Mike (with his refurbished engine!) and after visiting our friends Friday night, we turned south to Yuma on Saturday morning.

We will be staying here in Arizona for the winter and plan to drive cross-country back home to Cape Cod in March. In these first weeks living together, we have set new routines, started training classes, and adapted to sharing our RV with our growing four-legged goofball. Her antics as she explores and learns about the world are keeping us smiling and we made more friends at the RV park in one week than the entire winter season last year. Everyone wants to pet the white, friendly puppy.

Joe proposed registering her as “Journey” because it was a journey to find her, we trekked cross-country on a literal road trip to pick her up, and we look forward to sharing many travel adventures together. She has the perfect name!

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A land flowing with milk and …dates?

Medjool date palms

Historians and biblical scholars now believe that the honey referenced in the Book of Exodus refers not to bees’ honey but to the syrup prepared from dates. Turns out that the best way to preserve this highly nutritious fruit is to soak, cook, extract and reduce its syrup. As one of the oldest foods cultivated in the Mediterranean region, it makes complete sense that a reference to abundance would include good date production.

Medjool (Arabic majhūl) dates are known as the king’s fruit, once reserved only for royalty. These dates are large and sweet. Almost a century ago, California growers imported eleven medjool date palms from Morocco and nine survived, spawning the spread of date farming in the southwest United States.

Why are dates so expensive? It is a labor-intensive commercial crop, with farmers devoting most of their land to female date palms (which produce the edible fruit) and keeping just a few males or even purchasing the pollen when it is time to pollinate the female flowers. After the fruit buds form, each strand is thinned to allow better air circulation and bigger fruit. By August, the fruit bundles are bagged to protect from birds, insects, and dust. Dates are harvested by hand in the fall, sorted, graded, and sent to cold storage.

We learned all about date farming with a visit to Martha’s Gardens, here in Yuma. After sharing a delicious date shake by the courtyard fountain, we headed home taking the road less traveled.

After 1.5 miles of sketchy sandy trails, we determined the large CAT bulldozer parked on the trail was a good indicator that we were not on a sanctioned road! We carefully re-traced our tracks in the dust and made it back out to the secure pavement. Watch the video below of this adventure for Mike the van!

Off-roading with Mike!
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Highway Robbery

When we parked Cornelia in a “secure” storage facility last spring in Desert Hot Springs, CA, we calculated it would be cheaper than driving her another six thousand miles (round-trip), knowing we wanted to return to the desert southwest for winter ‘21-‘22. Unfortunately, the facility we chose doesn’t guarantee security from catalytic converter theft!

Practiced thieves can roll under an RV, make two saw cuts, and roll back out with a length of pipe that fetches $200-$300 on the black market, due to the trace amounts of platinum, palladium, and rhodium. As of December 18, 2021, platinum is fetching $30.29/gram, palladium is at $58.28/gram, and rhodium is an astonishing $376.16/gram.

Each catalytic converter contains between three-seven grams of these precious metals. Scrap metal processors need specialized machinery to recover these specific metals and police are now warning that unscrupulous buyers may fill a container to send overseas for processing, to evade authorities. A quick Google search confirmed that black market thieves can monitor the best prices that international companies are offering to “recycle the most expensive scrap.” One Turkish company advertises: “Worth of Platinum metal is increasing with time as its (sic) shown on the table. It’s (sic) economic value never decreased as seen in the table last 20 years. So that’s meaning Platinum’s value is getting more important every day.”

Cornelia was built with TWO catalytic converters. We learned that flexible dryer vents do not make good replacements. She now sounds like a very loud diesel truck when driving. We opened all her windows, to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning, and made a run for Yuma, AZ. Professional replacements will take weeks to receive and cost thousands of dollars.

To deter thieves from stealing your vehicle’s catalytic converter, police recommend:

  1. etch your VIN on to converter
  2. paint converter a bright color
  3. install a cage or shield over converter to slow down would-be thieves
  4. set vehicle alarm to detect minute vibrations
  5. park in a secure, locked, indoor garage

None of these measures will stop a determined thief, but perhaps stories about the Law of Gravity will begin to circulate among the criminal-minded. In recent months, at least three would-be thieves have been found crushed to death in North Carolina, Georgia, and California, when the carjacks failed while the (unrelated) men were trying to steal catalytic converters.

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California Dreamin’

The sun is shining, the grass is green
The orange and palm trees sway
I’ve never seen such a day in Beverly Hills, L.A.

(excerpted from “White Christmas” by Irving Berlin)
View from Clocker’s Corner at Santa Anita Park

Well, we actually visited Pasadena and Santa Barbara – not Beverly Hills! But the sun did shine on our friends’ green gardens and citrus trees and Sarah is dreaming of Christmas away from the snow!

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There’s Something About Saltwater

Joe was born and raised in Boston by the Atlantic; lived for a time in New Orleans near the Gulf of Mexico; and moved to California’s Pacific Coast in order to find Sarah. We purchased our Cape Cod home with the intention of retiring near the sea. We have visited all three ocean borders of the U.S. on this epic road trip. There is something primal and restorative about a saltwater shoreline.

A quick internet search reveals that there is some scientific evidence for why humans seek the solace of the sea. Sea air has higher levels of oxygen and negative ions which balances our serotonin levels, helping us to sleep better. Looking out at the vast water towards an endless horizon puts our worries into perspective. Listening to waves lowers our heart rate, promoting a sense of calm. It’s no surprise that sea water is rich in many minerals that are curative to humans, as we are “ugly bags of mostly water.”

It is with deep gratitude that we bid adieu to Newport Beach, after two glorious weeks of sunshine, beachwalking, and bonfires. And we are thankful for receiving our second doses of covid vaccinations.

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Where in the Weather are the Gills?

We made it to California. 6000 miles in 4 months. We really hoped for more sunshine and warmer weather this trip, but unusual climate events have overtaken us at many of our scheduled stops. Our friend, Sam, has stopped watching the Weather Channel and instead looks to see where we are to know where the latest freak storm has hit the U.S.

It is 50 degrees Fahrenheit and raining here in Southern California, as we post this today. We’re really glad we packed our winter clothes.

Stay warm, friends!

Categories: beach walking, Cape Cod, epic road trip, fulltime RV life, nomads, retirement travel, RV living, snowbirds | Tags: , , , | 4 Comments

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