central europe

The Perfect Horse

We toured the Spanish Riding School in Vienna. The guide was knowledgeable and patiently answered all of our questions. Sarah started reading Elizabeth Letts’ book and quickly became engrossed in the history of the Lipizzan (alt. Lipizzaner) during the 20th century.

Having read Jojo Moyes’ novel, “The Horse Dancer” a few years ago, it was captivating to tour these stables. Photos were not permitted inside the stables, because previous tourists have posted irresponsible pictures on social media. These animals are under the best care, with regular rotations between training, countryside vacations, and performing.

Stallions arrive to the school from their country stable around the age of four. That’s right – the first FOUR years of their lives are spent frolicking in fields, simply being horses! They gain natural strength from living free in herds doing natural horse stuff. They make friends with other horses. They spend time as foals with their mamas.

If selected to train in Vienna, they are assigned to a rider who then spends the rest of their life devoted to the care of that specific horse. Each rider has 4-5 horses in their care. Sequential training takes 6-8 years (!) before a horse is ready to perform. And horses then retire from performance between 18-24 years of age. They live out retirement back on the farm, enjoying a pampered life.

The bond between rider and horse is exceptional. No coercion is used. The stallion must want to work with the rider. The rider is there to invite the horse to perform and to ensure the health and care of the horse.

Categories: agritourism, central europe, responsible tourism, retirement travel, Vienna | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Best and Worst of Vienna

EDITED: You can read lots of travel stories about the famed “grantig” or “raunzen” of the Viennese people. Some writers encourage us to write off Viennese rudeness as “Kulturgut.” Others say it is hopelessly ingrained in the descendants of a former aristocratic capital. We recognize how fortunate we are to travel to foreign cities around the world and interacting with grumpy servers and subway workers is definitely a first-world problem!

Sarah in particular wrestles with high emotional sensitivity and doesn’t easily let rude behavior roll off her back. Intellectually, we know that a person’s bad behavior is a reflection of their worldview and we try not to take anything personally. That said, we liked our collective experiences in Prague way better than Vienna!

We read about the sullen service in some Viennese establishments. Sarah was not prepared for the downright rude behavior. A sidewalk cafe waiter was so busy chatting with his non-customer cigarette-puffing friend that her order was sidelined. At a different cafe, the server brought us food we did not order; when we challenged him, he pretended to be “forgetful” and re-plated the food. But then up-charged us for the stuff we didn’t order. A subway ticket-taker berated us “Americans who do not know lots of things” for not reading the fine print on our ticket, when our simple apology and his ticket validation would have sufficed. Our Air BnB host messed up our e-keys TWICE locking us out of our rental apartment and never apologized.

On the flip side, we were enchanted with the music programme at MozartHaus and were especially impressed with the skill of the young pianist. The cafe at the Belvedere Palace served delicious food with seemingly happy career waiters. The food and service at Kellergwolb was outstanding. Our tour guide at the Spanish Riding School was knowledgeable and patient with our questions. Dinner at the Melkerstiftskeller, on the advice of our friend Angela Malik-Stenson, was delightful. And “Sturm” is a new harvest favorite of Sarah – basically young wine (low APV) that is still fermenting, slightly bubbly, a bit cloudy, and only available for a few weeks in the fall.

Categories: botanical gardens, central europe, central europe, european history, Danube, responsible tourism, Vienna | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

The Blue Danube Waltz

While the Danube is not exactly blue water, it was pretty great to take the ferry from Bratislava to Vienna. The weather cooperated so we could sit outside for the 90 minute journey. And we even waltzed a bit!

Arriving in Vienna
Categories: Bratislava, central europe, Danube, responsible tourism, retirement travel, Vienna | Tags: , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Bratislava

We found a rooftop bar for our first afternoon in Bratislava. Daughter Jordan taught us this pro travel tip as a great way to orient ourselves in a new city. The Michael’s Gate is undergoing renovations under that scaffolding.

Cousin Bobby took an overnight train from Warsaw to meet us for a weekend in Bratislava. We did a 90 minute guided bus tour on Saturday morning, which is the best way to see a medieval town with its fortified castle built on a tall hill!

This region has evidence of human settlements going back 7, 000 years. Located on the Danube River, the city has a multi-cultural history with various influences and languages dominating different eras. In the early twentieth century, Slavic national identity was emphasized and the city was re-named Bratislava and became part of the newly established Czechoslovakia. Nazi occupation gave way to Soviet occupation and eventual independence was achieved after the Velvet Divorce. Bratislava is now the capital of Slovakia and is the wealthiest region in the country.

Our hotel was in Old Town and was originally built as a monastery in the thirteenth century. Gorgeously appointed, the central atrium is capped with beautiful stained glass panels. And the buffet breakfast here came with champagne (Sarah added a drop of fresh orange juice for vitamin C benefits).

On Saturday night, we attended a concert of Slovakian chamber music by the Štátny komorný orchester Žilina. The program concluded with Mikuláš Moyzes’ Mass in C Major sung by the Lúčnica Choir. It was a beautiful evening in a neo-baroque building.

Categories: Bratislava, central europe, nomads, responsible tourism, retirement travel | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

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